Travelling through Ladhak - Part 1 Leh

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Part 2 Pangong tso & Nubra:https://thefitfoodietravelscom.wpcomstaging.com/travelling-through-ladakh-part-2-pangong-tso-and-nubra-valley

Top things to do in Ladakh:https://thefitfoodietravelscom.wpcomstaging.com/things-to-do-in-ladakh

I am losing touch with solo travel. That's what I thought when I felt the anxiety to go to Leh by myself.

It was a work trip. I had to (and so badly wanted to) travel to Leh and Ladakh and plan my next active retreat there. Like always, I thought aloud if it was ok to travel alone there. I love travelling alone and I know more and more women are doing that in India and the country is also opening up to it. But, it's hard to forget the conditions, stories and situations that you have lived with for years.

My husband suggested I take a friend along with me. I immediately thought of my oldest friend Surya who has been my buddy for more than 25 years. She had been wanting to do a holiday together, so I decided why not?! Texted her, and she immediately said yes!

In the next week I designed the itinerary and fretted a million times before booking my flight tickets. Wasted a few precious days thinking of the right dates and lost a few thousand in the price hike.

Early morning ride to the airport with the cab's window open left my hair dishevelled and my face dusty. Nothing like the movie scenes where the heroine is looking in the distance, face glowing with the street lights. I was still feeling anxious and I tried to relax myself by thinking of my "To do list". I am weird. Work relaxes me.

Airport was packed! Packed is an understatement. I was glad I had gone way earlier than usual and still got through only just before boarding. I was wearing my trekking shoes to save space in the luggage. The metal clips were a nightmare and I had to keep taking them off in every airport! I was so very hungry and grabbed a panini in Delhi airport. My flight was full of uncles travelling in a group. Reminded me of the flights to Thailand.

I was in the first row, window seat. Had specifically booked it so I don't miss the spectacular view. It helped that I had great leg space too. But hey, you can't have it all can you? I had an annoying, loud, rude co-passenger. Talking loudly on the phone, acting super entitled with the crew and being rude to his and my seat neighbour. Seat neighbour? Wow. That's a fun term! He refused to exchange seats with someone who wanted to sit next to his family! Not like he had to give away his window seat.

Most of the passengers around me where talking about altitude sickness and their preparation for it. I was getting slightly anxious thinking of it. I had done no preparation. All I had was my confidence, my health and a moderate level of fitness.

My anxiety was thrown aside by the gorgeous view that greeted me outside the window. Billows of clouds floating on snowy mountain tops. Bright light reflected back from the clouds and mountains was blinding but beautiful! The extra money for a window seat is absolutely worth it!! My heart was singing look at this view and I knew it will continue to do so rest of the trip.

I helped my co-passenger take some pictures of the view for his daughter. It amazes me everytime how most of our countrymen and women talk to each other in English. English is not our first language but that has become one of the major languages for communication. The landing was rough and I was glad to be back on solid ground.

Day 1

After a bit of confusion I found a the taxi stand, which is on the left couple of steps up in the parking area as soon as you come out of the airport. I took a pre paid taxi which is easily available and was on my way to my hotel. Dorjee my taxi driver was super happy and smiling throughout. I took his number for future need.

I was staying at Smanla guest house in Chubi, which is a kilometre and a half from the market but was luckily close to a lot of hiking points. I freshened up quickly, learnt the real meaning of a scalding hot bath. I felt normal and ok and decided to start walking and exploring the city. Did my usual research on Google maps and decided to visit the palace, Namgyal tsemo, market, and other places that come on the way.

As I walked, I noticed everything was next to each other. Within a 3kms radius. Perfect! That's how I like it to be. Walk, walk and walk! Through a friend back home I got a contact of a local who then connected me to taxi guys for my trips the next few days.

I decided to start with Leh palace and on the way I saw Jama masjid and the market.

Decided to visit it on my way back from the palace. I so many many dogs on my walk up to the palace. Lined on both sides by stores and then as you climb higher, by old homes, the path to the palace is an interesting hike. The local doggos gave me company and I spent most of the time taking their pictures or yelling at kids who were troubling them. Noticed this was a common sight throughout the city - kids being cruel.

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I decided to go to the right of the palace, away from the entrance and explore a bit by myself. The view was great and the climb steep with some long drops on the side. I reached a dead end where the rooms were locked and there was no where to go. The ruins were beautiful and a great walk.

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I walked back to the entrance and bought a ticket for 25/-. The palace has a photography exhibition where you can look at the history of the land, the people and the buildings. At one spot, there is a huge window looking out to the open expanse. Three men who were travelling together were taking pictures of every permutation and combination possible. I offered to take their picture and hoped that they would then offer to take mine. :D

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As I came out of the palace, I saw this man sitting high on the edge and chanting. I wanted to record him but felt that would be intrusive and ruining a peaceful moment for him. Next stop, the jama masjid which was so colourful and pretty!

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The plan was to go to Shey palace, Hemis and lamayuru monastery the next day. Thought taking a bus would be a better idea than a taxi. I also wanted to go to Hemis national park and see if I can do a day hike there. It had started getting colder and then started drizzling!! As I walked towards the old market searching for the bus stop, a local news channel's crew stopped me and asked me a few questions about being a tourist in Leh. Well, I love talking so this was just perfect! I said some random stuff and they then told me I can watch it live the same night on an app. I made a note of it and continued on my search for the bus stop.

I had to keep asking local shopkeepers for directions. One of them recommended or rather strongly suggested to just book a taxi. Buses were unreliable and not an option. So, I called my local contact and booked a taxi for the next day's ride.

It was too cold and I decided it would be smarter to just sit indoors for a bit. I saw the Sky wok restaurant which was highly recommended online. They told me they were serving only vegetarian food that day and observing a dry day in accordance to a local festival. Worked well with me. I ordered a plate of momos and stuffed my face till kingdom come. Reading and writing while taking breaks in the middle. They were playing a medley of old Hindi songs. Really old. from the 60s and 70s. I was singing along and wondering how I knew so many tracks that were decades older than I was. Well, I know them because it's my parents music and I heard it all my childhood.

I went searching for the Tibetan kitchen to book a table for the next day. It was another of the highly celebrated places for the local cuisine. Unfortunately, it was shut and the neighbouring shops told me that it had been so for a few months now. But right next to it, I saw other restaurants that were on my list. I started walking back towards the hotel. It was just about 5. Too early to sleep and also for a dinner. But I was getting tired and it was really cold. I knew I wouldn't last much longer. I started searching for the Pumpernickel German bakery but the map took me to a place called Sugar house. I thought maybe the place was revamped now. Any way, I didn't have the energy to search for another.

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I ordered a cinnamon roll and a cup of coffee. I don't drink coffee but the weather warranted it. Then I saw a cheesecake. Uh oh! Had to order it. So now I sat stuffing my face, getting sugar high and then feeling sick. After licking my plates clean, I walked my way back home. On the way, I stopped at the Asian museum. The girl at the ticket counter was so beautiful and I asked her permission to take a picture. The museum had the usual artefacts from the king's era. The best part was the final floor and it's open balcony and a little bridge on the lower floors. I spent some time setting my mini tripod and taking selfies. :D

I was back in the room at 6, which was cold AF. The temperature was 8 degrees and I was dying. I tortured the hotel staff to get my an iron box and decided to call it a night. Had three layers of clothes on me but was still too cold. Snuggled in the blankets I applied for my permits to travel through Ladakh and shared the same with Surya. By 7:30 I was feeling extreme exhaustion and my eyes were shutting off. But the cold kept sleep away. It was 5 degrees now and I was struggling to stay warm and sleep.

Day 2

I had a very restless night. Woke up every hour and at 2 am the temperature was 1 degree! I thought of random things like caste system in our country, what to wear the next day and wondered if I was safe in my room. Finally, at 3:45 am I gave up and decided to call it a morning. :) I stayed snuggled in bed and spent my time reading, making space in my phone, and planning the day. Sitting on the pot was a nightmare! Water was ice cold and I wondered if my ass was frozen at the end of it! Finally once it was bright enough, I headed out and walked up to Sankar gompa. A small monastery 5 minutes from my hostel. It was wonderful to walk in the morning, but yeah, I was freezing. I didn't take my gloves and my fingers were going numb. I had to keep them in my pockets as I walked. The monastery was still closed but I sat in the courtyard, took pictures and relaxed. As I got ready to leave, a monk came in. I smiled and walked out. All my way back I had the dogs of Leh for company.

Surya came in by 8ish. I had ordered a breakfast combos of aloo and paneer parathas, thinking we were in north of India, they should make it well. They surprised me and proved me wrong! Well life is all about surprises now, isn't it? A nice surprise was a South African guy we struck a conversation with. He was travelling solo and was going to start a bike trip soon. We talked about weather and the world.

We had a long day planned today.

First off to Shey palace. Beautiful view, a standard statement I will use all the time in this post, but in no means is that view standard. Absolutely breath taking every where you look. I think we took pictures every second step. We met a Kannada family and as always I chatted up and we had a good time helping each other's with their pictures. There was a gathering for a special prayer at the adjoining monastery. We sat for a bit, drank butter tea and Surya took pictures with a little kid. The place was full of locals who were cooking and prepping for the event. After chit chatting with them for a bit, we finally moved to the next location, Hemis gompa.

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Hemis is a large monastery situated 45kms outside Leh. Not just large, it's colourful and very beautiful. The backdrop of rocky mountains and clear blue skies just makes it even better. We spent a lot more time here than was necessary in taking pictures. There are temples inside the monastery that are so beautiful! The paintings on the walls are just so incredible. We aren't allowed to take pictures, but we saw a lot of similarities in the gods depicted there and in our Hindu mythology. This monastery also has a museum which is a must visit! We were completely mesmerised with everything down there. Jewellery, weapons, paintings, clothing and so much more telling you about a world that doesn't exist anymore. I wished I could take some home!

We had spent here way too much time. More than that was required. I had been wanting to do the hiking trail in Hemis national park and though I didn't have the time for it anymore, only to realize that the national park was in a completely different direction and I will have to do a whole another holiday to visit it.

Last stop of the day, Thiksey monastery. You know you are approaching this from miles away. The huge building stands on top of a hill as any other monastery. The bright colours grab your attention immediately. The sun was bright and the white of the monastery was hitting our eyes. We had to walk around with our shades. The statue of Buddha Maitreya is just hypnotizing. The beauty in it's eyes are just pulls you in. This place is beyond beautiful and the view is to die for! I know! I have been saying this constantly. But it's true! This land is just so stunning!

We weren't too hungry so decided to go back to Leh for lunch. We directly went to Gesmo which was on my list. I was thrilled to see the menu with so many local dishes. We ordered a thenthuk which is a soup with noodles and veggies and a Shapta tingmo, a Tibetan style gravy with steamed spongy buns. We ate it like there was no tomorrow. I really wanted to pee but the bathroom was horrible. Which is saying something because I have gotten used to the worst ones through my travels.

Post lunch we decided to walk to Zorawar fort. Rather, I decided to walk because it was just 1.5kms! But Surya was so shocked to hear that like it was 10.5! Anyway, it seemed like forever getting there hearing her grumble constantly about it. We get to the fort and we are told that tickets for entry need to be bought at the hall of fame, which is 3.6 Kms away! There was no way we were going that far for tickets. Not even in a cab. The soldiers were very sweet and let us in anyway. We looked at some history that we knew no head or tail of. Used the washroom that was pristine clean and started walking out looking for a cab. The elusive cab. It seemed like we walked through half of Leh before we found a cab.

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Meanwhile we were trying to book a driver for the next day to go to Magnetic hill, Alchi and Lamayuru. The quote that came seemed to be on the higher side. So, when we got into this cab, we asked him if he would take us. His pricing was better and we decided to go with him. For now, head on to Lala's art cafe. A popular place for the young gen, which we aren't really part of any more. We are middle aged ladies. I was hungry but today they were serving only beverages. #facepalm The place definitely was interesting. An old building with narrow stairs where I obviously hit my head so hard that I though I will pass out, but pretended nothing had happened and no one noticed.

We just sat around and eventually Surya struck up a conversation with the guy sitting next to us. Toshi, was a local and was telling us about the Ladakhi culture, races and communities. Very interesting but I was cold, hungry and the exhaustion was hitting me hard now. After what seemed like ages, we finally left that place and walked up to Lehvendeh, a cafe recommended by Toshi.

The cafe was right in the market and was packed to the rafters. After a long wait we got a table but two mismatched chairs. First my chair was too high and then too low. I felt like Goldilocks. The portions were solid, the food delicious and we had to pack half of Surya's dinner back home. Surya struggled to walk back and I wondered if I had become insensitive to others, because of travelling solo. Have I forgotten to account for others and not just march to the tune of my own band?

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Day 3

Sleep wasn't too great but manageable. Woke up with a headache and wondered if it's dehydration, cold, sinusitis or AMS. I quickly got ready and stepped out. I was ready to hike Namgyal tsemo. One of the paths was very close to my guest house. The hike is steep and I could feel my lungs struggling to breathe. I stopped every five seconds to take pictures. I could never have enough of what I was looking at. The hike did challenge me and I had to bite down my ego and rest, worried of getting sick if I don't. The monastery was closed and no one was around. I climbed up and down, went upto the little palace on top. Took loads of pictures, called my family and showed them the view and then sat and just breathed. It was so good to sit down and look and feel at the crisp morning. I had taken my jacket off because I had gotten so hot after the hike. As I started getting cold, I knew it was time to go back down.

Today's breakfast was poha which was good. The best part of the breakfast in this place is the view. The cab was there, and we bundled in ready for the day. 5 minutes in to the drive, Surya remembers all the things she had forgotten, so we drive back. 10 minutes later, we start again.

First stop Magnetic hill.  This is a gravity hill located just outside Leh. The layout of the area and surrounding slopes create the optical illusion of a hill. Vehicles seem to roll uphill against gravity whereas they are actually rolling downhill. It was hot and the sun was blazing down on us. There were a lot of other cars full of tourists taking pictures on the road. We moved away, took pictures by the mountains till the bunch drove away. But, there was this couple twinning but not winning in Orange who refused to budge from the centre of the road. We waited patiently but their selfies won't stop! Surya finally asked them to move out so we could take our pictures.

Does sound like too much stress for just pictures. But the fact is these pictures become the way to relive the whole experience again. So, yes. Taking pictures was important if not as much as savouring the moment.

Now we moved to Sangam. The confluence of Indus and Zanskar river. The muddy green of Zanskar and the bright blue green of Indus make for a beautiful sight. They have even made a little corner for people to take pictures. After I took mine, loads of random uncles and aunties started copying my poses.

Now on our way to Alchi. On the way we saw yaks and deer grazing by the road, we couldn't take great pictures but was such an amazing experience to see them in wild! We passed by a bridge full of the Tibetan prayer flags and Surya wanted to take pictures there. I was getting impatient to get to Alchi. So, morosely I took some pictures and we continued.

Alchi is one of the oldest monasteries where the Kashmiri style of architecture was used. It is a temple complex with five different temples standing within a mud brick wall. It was started by Ringsen Zangpo who was trained in Kashmir and had gotten artisans from there to start the work. Photography isn't allowed inside to protect the structure and paintings. Every inch of the wall is covered with frescos of Buddhas, wildlife, temple life, bhodisatvas etc. The Indus river flows right behind the temple and you can walk along it. I obviously did that. It was hot as hell but a beautiful walk.

I was looking forward to the lunch today. We were going to eat Alchi Kitchen, a very popular Ladakhi restaurant. They had shut their branch in Leh and now only operated in Alchi. I was thrilled to see the restaurant as soon as we had alighted our car outside the monastery.

The Alchi kitchen is run by all women and has an incredible vibe. Pretty corners and seating and an incredible menu. I couldn't decide what to eat, everything sounded incredible! We zeroed down on a bowl of thukpa that is noodle soup, chutagi which is hand rolled pasta like dish, a glass of fresh apricot juice and finally Khambir, a local fermented bread with apricot jam. Thanks to Surya, we got to take pictures with the whole staff. I can't wait to get people here on my retreat.

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Time to move on to the last destination for the day, Lamayuru. The land with a lunar landscape! The drive to Lamayuru was just incredible! The bright blue sky actinga s a backdrop for white, yellow and brown mountains. Mountains or craters? It really felt like we were on the moon. After a really long but beautiful drive we were at Lamayuru monastery. Surya caught hold of some lillte monks and we took pictures with them. They found it very amusing that we had only a first and last name. They not only have a middle name but two first names. I explained to them how there are a lot of different cultures and communities in our country and so a lot of different styles of names.

The monastery was almost closing. There was a big bunch of people inside, so I spent my time doing backbends outside, Surya being my photographer. We walked around the whole enclave with our driver Tanzin and then started our drive back home.

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My headache had gotten worse and now I had started sneezing too. Hello there Sinusitis! Back in Leh, we went to La Piazetta. Surya wanted to drink and they didn't have any alcohol. While she was in the rest room I called up my friend Niki who recommended going to Chopsticks. Surya cribbed and cried but we had to walk to Chopsticks. Unfortunately they weren't serving alcohol. The tourist season wasn't fully back and most places did not have their bar license yet. I was ready to just sit and eat. A hot bowl of soup would have been perfect, but she wanted alcohol!

So we walked back to Lehchen, a bar we had seen on the way. We had a few drinks and talked about our life and families. An uncle and aunty were staring at me from the next table, we kept trying to think why that was happening. On my visit to the loo, a young boy was trying to hit on me telling how much he likes me. I ruined it all for him by explaining how he was just attracted to me and nothing else because we had met 2 minutes ago! Poor chap! Sorry! Old habits die hard.

Suddenly there was a influx of a big bunch of bikers and I decided it was time to call it a night. We were leaving for Pangong the next day, sub zero temperatures and Surya suggested we take a bottle of alcohol with us. We hadn't seen a single wine shop anywhere so we asked at the bar. He offered to sell us a bottle of Old monk for 3800/-!! We laughed and walked out.

The walk back was a little scary. Packs of dogs out on the street who scared Surya but the pack of men driving around scared me a bit. Following what I always do in situations like these, I put my head down and walked as quick as I could do the hotel. Surya was slightly slow and getting scared so I had to keep asking/yelling at her to keep up. Our hostel gate was closed and the owner woke up to tell us there was a curfew. I literally scolded him and asked him to open the gate instead of spelling out rules at midnight.

We are starting for Pangong tomorrow and we need to get in a good night. To read our Pangong adventures go to

To look at Top things to do in Ladakh: https://thefitfoodietravelscom.wpcomstaging.com/things-to-do-in-ladakh