Shillong - Travelling through Meghalaya

Day 6

Happy 40^th to me!! The day was here. I was 40 years old and travelling alone. I left early in the morning and took the first bus to Guwahati. The whole morning was spent in taking calls and birthday wishes. Once at Guwahati, I decided to take a shared taxi to go to Shillong. Save money whenever you can!

I waited for a while in the taxi while the driver could find more passengers. Finally, he got three Bangladeshi workers. It looked like this was a deal he had with whoever was managing the migrants. They got a much cheaper deal and were stuffed in the back seat. I immediately felt uncomfortable, despite being in broad day light. Very soon we were at the check post. When the cop saw me in the front seat, he waved us on, but soon noticed the workers at the back and stopped us. They had to go through ID checks while I sat and watched the sudden change around me.

As soon as we had entered Meghalaya, the women’s attire changed, I could hear rock music everywhere. Good rock music! Inside the car, was a whole different story. My driver was listening to some unbelievable Hindutva propaganda. It was a glimpse into how uneducated or inexperienced citizens can be influenced. Soon, he started pushing me into a conversation I didn’t want to have. He was asking about Hyderabad (he had asked where I was from, so knew this), the Nizams and if they still have all their property with them. Told him, obviously not, just like all royal families of the nation, almost everything is in museums, hotels or owned by the government. How brainwashing works – he was sure Owaisi was the CM of Telangana and was shocked to know it was somebody who wasn’t a follower of Islam. This conversation was really pissing me off and I politely told him that in our city, we don’t waste time over this and we all live harmoniously together.

Finally, after 3 long hours, I was in Shillong. He dropped me at a taxi stand and I had to take another taxi to reach my stay. There is no Uber or Ola here and you are completely dependent on the local taxis. Once I reached my home in Shillong, I met Ashley who is the owner of my homestay. Room was super tiny but comfortable. Ashley said he was planning to go out with his friends for a birthday party and I was welcome to come along. I was obviously thrilled! It was my birthday too and I would get to see the famous Shillong music scene.

I spent most of the evening answering phone calls, or rather receiving birthday wishes. Suddenly Ashley mentioned he wasn’t going out and his plan was cancelled. So, I walked out and went to police bazaar. Did some shopping, bought a coat and a shawl, enjoyed watching two hawker ladies mock fight, and went to the popular Tratorria for a plate of Jedoh; which is a dish of rice and pork. It was tasty, but too much meat for me and I don’t enjoy meat that much anymore. My cousins called me at the same time and I chatted with them while I waited for my food. The owners were super sweet and noticed how I struggled to eat it. They asked me to visit them for lunch the next day and promised to give me a veg heavy dish.

I took a taxi back home. A very helpful and sweet guy. Back in the room it felt like I was in sub-zero temperature, while it was only 14 degrees! It felt colder than Ladakh. I wrapped myself in multiple blankets and went into slumber land.

Day 7

I went on a morning hike as suggested by Ashley. It turned out to be more of a morning walk. Google took me through random routes expecting me to parkour. The view was beautiful but not incredible.

Once back, the breakfast served was meagre. Toast and one boiled egg. I was wondering how I would survive on it. Ashley told me about a music festival happening and I decided to go there. My plan was travel through Meghalaya on a bike, this was recommended by Sunny, my friend in Kaziranga. Today was day one. Everything was going – well, not good. Navigation was a big pain in my ****, traffic was insane, most places I wanted to go to (to look at as a stay option for the retreat) were either shut or not friendly. I finally found a place I liked and I was hoping it will work out for the retreat.

The next stop was Umiam lake. The drive was great and the lake beautiful but every time I stopped to get near it, the army would send me packing. They were running a drill there and civilians weren’t allowed.

Now to the music festival. It was completely out of Shillong and I had to go on the highway. It was such a nuisance with the navigation that I wasted a lot of time going on wrong roads or around circles. The roads out were bad, my neck was hurting and I was regretting doing this. But 10 minutes in, I was in the groove. I thought that finally at 40 I would be doing a bike trip!

When I got to the festival, I wasted another 20 minutes going the wrong way into the campsite instead of the festival. Entry was a good Rs 1500 and barely anything was set up. I walked around for an hour, saw the stall being set up, ate some momos and saw a stall by a famous chef whose name I couldn’t remember. Finally, at 2:15 pm the stalls were coming up and the stage was getting ready. I had to head back soon as I was far out from the city and the sun sets by 5pm.  

Just as I was making up my mind to leave, an artist started singing for mike check on the stage. I loved him! I had no clue who he was and I was too embarrassed to ask someone else. (Later I came to know it was Yung Raja from Singapore)

5 minutes in, raindrops start falling on my head. I decide to get the FO. But, as my luck would have it, it started pouring cats and dogs and rhinos and elephants! It was ridiculous! There was not one spot where I could take shelter. Just long empty roads. Finally, I saw a house which had a tiny ledge I could stand under. It barely kept my shoulders dry. In a while, I noticed a shed ahead and ran upto it. It was some kind of garage and there were workers in it. I stood in there watching it pour harder and the sky get darker. I was angry, frustrated and a little scared too. I don’t stay out much after dark when I am on my solo trips. I called Abhinav and started crying out of anger.

After around 10 minutes the rain slowed down. I decided to start and in 5 minutes it started pouring again. I had no patience anymore. Anyway I was soaked to the bone, decided to just go home. I drove for over an hour and cold and heavy rain. Just as I entered main Shillong city, I noticed everything was bone dry! It hadn’t rained there!

Too late, my mood to do anything else was ruined. I really wanted to check out the Rock music scene here (best on Friday and Saturday nights) but now I had missed my chance with this being a Saturday night. I put my clothes in the dryer. Ashley got a fireplace started for me and I ordered some food in. I spoke to Ashley and booked a car and a driver for my rest of Meghalaya trip.

I knew riding through Meghalaya was out of the question. Who was I kidding? I would have, and do hate it! As I was sitting in bed, soothing my cramping feet and listening to rock music playing far away, I told myself to accept the fact that I was getting older and was used to some creature comforts. No antics for me!

Read about my next stop at Cherapunjee https://thefitfoodietravelscom.wpcomstaging.com/cherapunjee-sohra-travelling-through-meghalaya