Kaziranga National Park - Travelling Through Assam

Day 4

I woke up at 4:30. Again the watch and phone mismatch confused me. I had a horrible drive to Jagiroad on those horrible roads. I got down at the Jagiroad ASTC depot and waited for my bus. There were two men in the office who were as unfriendly as one can be. I wanted to use the bathroom and they told me someone had gone to fetch water as there was no running water inside. In a while, a man came and slammed a bucket of water outside in the hall. I was asked to carry the bucket in if I wanted to use the loo. I did, obviously. And when I came out, promptly the same man went in. What an ******!

In a while my bus driver called and I was told to come to another stop which was around 500 metres away in the opposite direction. So up I went for my morning walk! I got in the bus and snoozed in and out of sleep. Once I reached Bokakhat, I hired an electric auto to get to my stay at Sol village. Sol village is situated in the reserve and hence only electric public vehicles are allowed.

After the stay and conditions at Karbi, Sol was luxury beyond par. The property is green and beautiful. The rooms are bright, airy and spacious. But my favourite part was the luxurious attached bathroom! It’s wonderful how much we take basics (for people like us) for granted till it’s taken away from us.

I met Sunny, the owner of Sol village and a friend I had made years ago at a rafting trip. I had reached in time for the evening safari and was looking forward to go and spot Rhinos. Sunny had mentioned that there was a family of three already staying with him and I can club with them for the safari. After all, the safari jeeps easily take 4-6 guests. But, the family refused and told Sunny they wanted only three of them together. I found it really stupid and immature. When we go on holidays like this, we are always excited to meet new people and make friends. Our safari trips have been full of new friends like this. But hell, whatever!

Sunny suggested going the next morning with him. He is licensed to drive the safari jeeps and that way I would save money. But by now, my mind was made up to go on a safari. I didn’t care how much it would cost and wanted to go immediately. I wasn’t sure if I would get to spot the Rhinos. So if I didn’t get any in the evening, I could plan to go next morning too. I booked the safari for myself and then had a lovely home like meal full of veggies (Sigh! Finally!) There was no power and I didn’t have much charge. Fortunately, with a 7500MAH battery on my phone, there was enough juice to take pictures on the safari.

My guide at my safari was Khogen and the driver was Jiten. I was so excited to start it! One of the wildlife rangers took a lift with us into the forest. I had a little chat with him about his work and posting. It was incredible to know that some of them were posted there for 20 years and more!

Kaziranga was very different to all the other reserves I have been. So lush and green! What a sight! My guide showed me these man made mud plateaus that have been built as a refuge for the animals during the annual floods. I was amazed to know that all kinds of animals stay together in harmony during those times. They told me how the rangers patrol in inflatable boats during the floods and even rescue animals that are in distress. Hats off to these incredible men!

My luck was just insane! I saw a rhino the moment we entered the main reserve area!! I was beyond thrilled! I regreted not bringing my DSLR. How dumb! What a rookie mistake! Well, I had thought about bringing it. But decided against it as I wasn’t sure of keeping it safe during a 15 days trip. I really have to plan better. We stopped at the Sohola lake which basically translates to seven lakes that have merged together as one. I saw so many animals together! The guide had binoculars and I was little a little kid squealing at every sighting! Let me just list down all that I saw.

Deer, Rhinos of course, wild buffalos, stork, serpent eagle, lesser adjutant, egret, heron, snakebird, grey lake goose which had migrated from Siberia, lesser whistling duck, black neck stork, swamp deer, fowl, Himalayan hornbill squirrel, bee eater, rhesus macaques and wild boars.

I also learnt about some trees like urium tree and the silk cotton tree on which the elephant creeper grows. These creepers were used to tether elephants in the olden times. They are that strong! I also learnt about elephant apple, a fruit that obviously elephants loved, but also is a favourite amongst the locals who cook it with fish.

The whole safari route hadn’t opened yet as there was a lot of work going on. The short trail ended soon and on our way out I had a little staring contest with a wild buffalo. I conceded like a smart woman. As we were heading out, a rhino walked in just 100 metres away from us! Yay!

I was so glad and satisfied for having booked the safari. I had seen almost everything and decided to not do another one the next day. After heading back, there was a power cut again and I ended up having a cold water shower. Once it was back, I sorted my luggage (favourite pastime) and ironed my clothes (the most favourite pastime). A little before dinner time, I went up to Sunny’s cottage, where over drinks we talked business (I want to plan a retreat there) and the plans for the next day. After another incredible dinner, I decided to call it a night and went back to my room for a night of deep sleep.

Day 5

I started early and had a beautiful morning run. Running through farms and the village. Coming across all kinds of domesticated animals. I saw some kids harassing a chicken and I yelled at them. Sunny told me later that it’s something he has struggled a lot to bring a change in the region. Teaching the people to respect the nature and animals. He has gotten into arguments with the villagers but fortunately, they have learnt a bit over the years.

Post the run, I sat in my room planning the retreat, the costing and reading. It was amazing to sit by the window, watching the birds and reading. Reading, uploading pictures onto the drive and just day dreaming! I am loving this life!

After a simple but delicious lunch, Sunny took me out to the Kaziranga National Orchid & Biodiversity park. I got a full tour of the orchid garden and it was fun learning and looking at so many different varieties of plants. Every 45 minutes or so there is a dance performance showcasing the various dance forms of Assam. There was one going on as we had entered. We decided to finish walking around and catch the next one. Next we went into the herb garden, cactus garden, rice museum, bamboo museum and Gurkha museum. At the Gurkha museum, the caretaker went on a rant of the good old days and how now we are spoilt with devises and the use of plastic. He was totally right! After almost one hour, the next round of dance wasn’t starting and I decided to just skip it.

We went and bought some tea for me to take back home and then posed in a tea garden. Sunny cooked me a special dinner of steamed fish at night and I spent most of the evening playing with his cute doggos.

This was the eve of my 40^th birthday. As I was walking back to my cottage from his, I almost slipped and yelled out “mummy!”. Almost 40 but calling out to my mom!

Time to go to bed and wake up as a 40 year old woman!

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