Day 8
After 7 days of Active Escapes, I was ready to be a tourist again. They had arranged a car for us to be dropped to our next destinations. One thing is for sure, the service is just absolutely incredible at Active Escapes. My next destination was Seminyak. We followed the map and got near the location of my AirBnB, but couldn’t figure out where it actually was! There was no name board outside and nobody was answering the calls. The driver showed the pictures of the place from my AirBnB app to the other locals around, and we could finally figure out the right one.
While checking I realized that I was a day early! Or rather, I booked it for a day later! I had an inkling that I would mess up my bookings. With so many days and so many different places, there was bound to be some confusion. Luckily they had a room free and I extended my booking for another day. I was here at “Rusty Seminyak”, a simple, super clean and spacious place. Best part was how peaceful and quiet it was.
I quickly dumped my luggage in the room, changed and was out and about to explore and specially to eat something. There was a spring in my step, thanks to being a tourist again. The sun was hot and I needed food. 1st stop Tamade café recommended by my friends. I saw a lot of other interesting places on the way and made a mental note to visit them later.
Tamade was a tiny, cute place, run by an old couple who do the cooking themselves. They even had a board saying they aren’t replicating dishes, it’s just about simple home cooking. Before I even placed my order, the lady offered me the WiFi password. This is the norm at almost every place here in Bali. I ordered an Umami bowl, it wasn’t too great. Also, I missed the recommendation my friend gave for what to eat. Post the meal, I asked her where I could rent a bike. When she realized I was in Seminyak for only two days, she recommended using Gojek, which was Bali’s equivalent of an UberMoto. She explained how that would be way cheaper than a rental. So, off I went booking a Gojek after downloading the app. She was right. It was quite cheap. From Tamade to the flea market was just 9000 IDR which is around 45 INR. Peanuts!
It was still early in the day and the flea market was completely empty. Good time to look around in peace. Let’s shop! The stores right at the entrance were absolutely a rip off. They were quoting such ridiculous prices that I didn’t even want to bargain and waste my time. I decided to just chill for a bit. There were a few restaurants and I ordered the famous Bintang (the local beer) and sat down planning my next few days.
Shopping was as it is always with me. I suck at bargaining and end up paying way more than I should. Just as I thought that I seemed to be getting better at it, one of the vendors told me that I was really sweet and unlike the other Indians who drove a hard bargain. #facepalm. I didn’t know whether to kick myself or take it as a compliment. To think of it, it was nice. I didn’t want to rob them or underpay them. I felt I paid a fair price and that was enough. Going to the markets in the morning is the best because they are eager to make a sale and hence to slash the prices and ready to bargain. There are no other tourists around so you get a good look too.
I had run out of money and had to exchange immediately. When I reached an exchange store I realized that I needed my passport, which I didn’t have on me. Unfortunately, I didn’t remember the number either! I know! I know! But, I can never remember these things. There was another tourist there making a huge fuss about the same. Literally bullying them to give her money without the passport. That was absolutely wrong and disrespectful. Rules are rules, no matter where you are (usually). Then I remembered that the hotel I had stayed at Uluwatu had taken a copy of my passport. I called them and requested to share the number. And voila! My work was done!
Next, I walked to the Santo Michael church. On the way, I called the cooking class which is quite popular in Seminyak. They wanted a minimum of two people and so, wasn’t for me. The church was shut for a private ceremony and so I walked upto the Double six beach. As you come closer to the beach, a riot of colours hits you. The complete beach is dotted with colourful umbrellas. I thought of sitting on one of the bean bags, but then decided to take a walk first. I was feeling quite mixed. I loved being by myself there, so peaceful and calm. Soaking in the beauty without any interruptions. I also missed having some of my friends with me. It would have been nice to have some company. Weird eh? I like being alone and craved for companions.
There were people playing football, a super adorable puppy keeping the kids busy and sand castles. I came across one and a little girl making it. I asked the father if I could take a picture of it and so we got into a conversation. They were a Swiss German family on a holiday. Leah, the little girl had just turned 5 and they were vacationing in Bali. We spoke a bit more and I even tried my paltry knowledge of German on them. As I walked away, I thanked that I was alone. If I was with a bunch of people, I would have never struck a conversation with them. I would have been busy in my own circle, barely noticing others around. Even if it was for 5 minutes, these interactions are the ones that stay with you and make memories. I finally sat at one of the bar’s bean bag and just looked at the golden sunset. After 10-15 minutes, I booked another Gojek and decided to go to the next stop Revolver Café.
Gojek isn’t allowed to come into the beach lane, so I had to walk out a bit. My plan was to have a coffee at the café and then head to the Batik restaurant for dinner before calling it a night. When I reached Revolver café, I realized it wasn’t a café but a bar! Well, too late to do anything so I ordered an espresso martini. Coffee after all!! It was bloody delicious and potent! And then I was informed that, it was happy hours! I was going to get one more! Goodbye sobriety! While sipping my drink, I sat journaling my day. The bartender noticed me writing and started telling me about his friend who is Vlogger and how she makes money from it. Sigh!
After the 2 drinks were done, I went over to the Batik restaurant. Beautiful place decorated in the theme of Batik, which is one of the predominant arts in Bali. The menu was super interesting and the prices so much more cheaper than Uluwatu. There was copious amounts of alcohol + caffeine in my blood stream. Caffeine was a brand new experience for my body. In any other circumstances, I would have been dancing on a table but today, I sat down elegantly and ordered a Pepes Ikan (Steamed fish with rice and sambal) with chamomile tea. The wait was incredibly long for the food, or maybe it was the caffeine talking. After dinner, while waiting for my Gojek on the street I was talking to my mother on the phone. A couple sitting at the restaurant warned to be careful with my phone and bags, as there tends to be instances of snatching. Whoops!
Finally back home and stayed up till 2 watching TV! Damn you caffeine!!
Day 9
Up at 4:30. Old habits die hard. Once it was bright enough I chilled by the pool for a bit and then got ready and headed out to Nook for breakfast. I had my list of things to do, and the day before I had charted out my itinerary based on the distances and operating hours of these places. Nook is a quaint little place with amazing menu. I chose a quinoa salad and a Jamu. I forgot to tell them to not add the egg. I already felt guilty eating the fish the night before. This journey towards Veganism is hard. Jamu is a local drink that they make with herbs and natural products. I ordered one with Turmeric, ginger and lime. As I waited for my food, I walked around the store. They have loads of beautiful stuff for sale. I, obviously shopped! The staff were super friendly and the prices… hmmm mid-range.
Next on list, the Pura masceti temple. I was the only tourist there and I spent some time just sitting around and admiring the art. Well, there’s isn’t a lot to see. The section allowed to tourist would barely take 10 minutes. It was still too early and none of the bars and restaurants would be open, so I walked over to the beach right in front. There were some swings and I had a hilarious time trying to take a picture of myself on it. Each time I put the timer on and got ready, tow doggos would come running and join me. After a few attempts, I gave up and decided these pictures had to be with those two cuties.
As I walked out, I saw a bunch of people working out, probably a part of a bootcamp. Reminded me of my last week at Active Escapes. As I walked slowly towards my next stop, the potato head beach club, I came across some street stores and of course I shopped! I also saw Mrs. Sippy Bali, a very happening bar. But it wasn’t open yet and I didn’t see the point in going to so many bars to just sit alone and drink. At the potato head beach club, the staff struck up a conversation with me at the entrance. They were surprised to hear how old I really was and that I was travelling solo. I WAS surprised that they reacted to me travelling solo. Don’t a lot of people do that when they come to Bali?
The entrance and the décor is quite funky and also a really long walk! Well once in, same problem. I was alone and wasn’t going to sit for a long time so wasn’t given the fun seats near the pool. Honestly, I had no interest in sitting in the sun again. I sat under the fan, in the shade and ordered a beer. Stark, a local brewed beer which came in multiple flavours. I really liked the litchi flavoured beer (I took a few back home and they tasted nothing like that. I guess it was “first time novelty factor”.) That one beer turned into three while I called home and rattled on a new business plan (which might happen!) After a 45 minute call I remembered that I should have switched to WiFi! I am such a slo-mo!! Nevertheless, I had a great data plan that I had bought at the airport, so it was all good. I ordered a ceviche, the cheapest thing on the menu. It was heaven on a plate! So bloody good! The alcohol and the knowledge that I had tried something for the first time kept down my guilt of eating meat again (I ate a lot many more times on this trip).
I decided to head home right when the place was getting warmed up. I decided to come back here again someday with my friends. It wasn’t fun without them. Once back at home, I chilled in the pool reading a book. I booked a day trip to see all the other major locations around Bali for the next day.
After a 2 hour break, I headed to Mexicola. Another bar highly recommended by my friends. It was exactly how they had described. Colourful, bright and so lively! As the name suggests, it was a Mexican themed bar. Very interesting menu and cocktails. I ordered their special and a taco, which by the way wasn’t even as big as my palm. I found the place a little expensive. The music was great and I wanted to start dancing, but sigh! I ended up having two drinks while I watched this Indian couple sitting next to me, who were clearly on their honeymoon, stare into their respective phones. How utterly romantic! Trying to pass my time drinking like this, I was ruining all the great workout I had done the last whole week.
Again, I left the bar just as it started getting lively. I went back to the main street where I was staying at. Walked around looking at various stores. Picked little gifts for friends back home. Last stop for the day was the Theatre art gallery. The place was full of antiques and art collected from all over the world. I got talking to the owner who told me that it was her brother’s collection and everything there was on sale. I had to pick a gift for someone who had recently celebrated their 60th birthday. Foolishly I thought of picking something from here. One look at the price and I knew that I would have to sell an arm and a leg to get a single tiny piece! Forget it! I thanked her and walked my way back home.
I wasn’t too hungry but wondered if I would want something in a while. So stopped by a restaurant on the way to pick something small. They had some salad veggies, sautéed veggies and lasagne on display. I asked them to give me the salad and sautéed veggies together and they refused. What weird people! I bought a small portion of the lasagne which was one of the worst things I have ever eaten. They didn’t even bother to heat it!
Sleep was quite disturbed thanks to a bunch of British guys staying at my hotel creating a ruckus in the night. Swearing, screaming, dropping things! Uncouth!
Day 10
Today was the day of a full day trip. I went to Nalu bowls for breakfast. These are chains of smoothie bowl outlets throughout Bali. After a quick and healthy breakfast, I came back to my room to wait for the driver. He was late. It was 8:30 and he was supposed to pick me at 8:00. I received a mail from him just then telling he was slightly delayed and would be there soon. By the time he reached, I was very annoyed and got even more irritated to know that he didn’t even have my phone number! What kind of planning and management was this?! Then he says he needs to use the washroom. We look for one in the lobby but don’t find it so I have to go back up to open my room. I know it’s nature’s call and it really isn’t his fault, but I am really irritated ok?!
Finally we start and now he asks me what exactly do I want to do. I tell him my list and ask him to decide the route and itinerary according to what is doable. As soon as I read out, he announces that we can’t make it to the Lempuyang temple because the queue is long and blah blah. Honestly, I knew it was one of the major tourist destinations and the queues sometimes last for couple of hours and wasn’t too stuck on having to do it. But because I was already irritated, him saying it isn’t possible made me even more angry. I snapped and told him that maybe if he was on time, we could have done it. Then he tells me that his daughter broke his sunglasses so we need to stop to buy one. Are you kidding me?! And then (yes I am not done) he tells me to write a good review and rate them well on Tripadvisor. I tell him it’s little too early for that. My review would depend on how my day actually goes.
Finally I ask him to decide an itinerary, whatever he shares I am ok with that and we go towards our first stop, a Batik workshop. Now I knew this was one of the places the touring companies are in collaboration with and bring all their customers to. We have similar MO back in India too. I quickly skimmed through stuff and got out. It also helped that none of the products were great.
He was being overtly friendly which I dislike. I know that it’s his job to be pally and make the customers feel comfortable. But I take a long time to warm up (most times). Specially in such scenarios. He started playing Bollywood songs which were almost 20 years old. He wanted me to translate them and I wanted to slit my throat. Ok, way too morbid. But you get it right? I am not into Bollywood music even when I am back in India and now he was torturing me with some age old music and was even singing along. He even wanted us to take a video lip syncing to one of the songs for his Facebook. I grunted. Which means no response. Which essentially means, never ever happening!
The next stop the Perhatian temple. This wasn’t on my list and was his idea. I am glad because it was a beautiful place. He was damn annoying by trying to take pictures and even pose with me. I was my usual extreme rude and cold self when put in a corner like this (If you are a family or friend, I am sure you have seen me in action). There was an entry ticket of IDR 25000 and I had to take the sarong which is customary throughout Bali. He explained the architecture of the temple and how most are divided into various sections depending on the sanctity of the activities performed there. Ok, I admit I was slowly calming down. Looks like I might not kill him after all!
Next, we were off to a wood carving factory. I am guessing another of their tie ups. It was incredible to see this man at work. Immense talent! I picked up some gifts for people. I bargained like an Indian! As it’s clear that I was in one of those moods and was bulldozing through everyone.
He offered to take me to a jewellery store too as were in the jewellery district of Bali. I refused. Didn’t have the interest or money to shop there. We were on our way to the coffee plantation. He told me he will take me to one of the places he knows which also has the swing instead of going to the most popular “Bali Swing” as that place would be too crowded. I knew it was all about there collabs but I couldn’t care much. I told him I needed to eat and we could stop for lunch post the plantation. He suggested we do it before and so I was dropped off at Warung D’yoni, a very picturesque but expensive place. I had the Crispy duck with Sambal Matah. Two things ticked off my list. Also, loads of pictures. So not a bad deal.
Post lunch we were off to the coffee plantation. Agus, the driver stayed out while a plantation employee came and escorted me for a tour around it. I had a walk around the plantation where all the steps and processes were explained. An old granny was sitting and roasting the beans and by the looks she gave me, it was pretty obvious that she didn’t approve of my clothes. I saw civet cats sleeping in their enclosure. These Civet cats are used to make the famous Luwak coffee. They eat the berries and when they poop, the coffee beans are collected, de-shelled, cleaned and roasted to make the super expensive and famous Luwak coffee. I was shown how the beans aren’t dirty because of the poop, the shells are still on.
I was given a sampler of various teas and coffees. I just tasted each to figure out who should I buy them for. I am not big into either and wasn’t something I would buy for myself. After spending a substantial amount of money there, I was escorted towards the bird nest and the swing. If you are new to these terms, you clearly haven’t come across Bali in anyway till date. The swing over fields and the bird’s nest have become synonymous with Bali tourism. They were pretty expensive. I spent IDR 250000 on it! I wouldn’t waste either of our time explaining it further. Just look at the pictures. One of the staff there went completely paparazzi on me at the nest. I posed but felt super awkward and begged for him to stop. At the swing, my inner Bollywood diva (We all Indians have it. We just pretend to be too cool for it) sprung out and I behaved like a 80s-90s heroine.
Once we left that place, it suddenly struck me and I felt super bad that I hadn’t tipped the guy who took my pictures. It’s not usually a habit as in India, I am constantly fighting not giving tips, because the general idea is that it’s your job!! And you are already being paid for it! Agus told me that just my thought and positive feeling for that guy was great. He would receive what he deserves through the universe in some way or another. Through my day’s conversation with him, I realized how spiritual these guys were. They had such positive and simplistic ways of looking at a lot of things. But on the other side, they were also very superstitious. Agus told me how they always blew the horn before passing a bridge, a temple and a peepul tree. They believed that these places were haunted by spirits and by honking you are letting them know that you are passing through, which is a mark of respect. And if you don’t, something bad and nasty befalls you.
We reached the Tegalalang rice fields. While entering Agus made me pay IDR 20000 as a donation towards the temple. I don’t know which temple was this and why a donation was forceful. It’s a beautiful view and if the weather is good, you can take a nice walk around. Unfortunately, it was scorching hot. After taking the customary pictures with the old men standing there (a tip of IDR 20000 each) we walked down to a lower level. The pathway was non-existent. We were walking on the narrow strips of land dividing the paddy fields. There were a couple of guys coming from the other side. We had to slide through and pass over each other. One of the men started panicking and refused to cross over me. I calmed him down like I do with my 9 year old and quickly jumped across. Advantages of being small built!
Next stop Tukad Cepung waterfall. Agus said the stairs were too steep and he starts getting breathless. He is 31 and looked pretty fit to me. He blamed it on his habit of smoking. I was glad to get some time by myself. The stairs aren’t that steep and the route isn’t too long. I had come prepared for the waterfall. As I reached I saw everyone taking turns to take pictures. So civilized! If it was India, men in their underwear which btw had holes in them, would be jumping under it in hordes! There was an Australian couple at it when I got there. They were hilarious! Posing and doing all kinds of crazy things. There was a Vietnamese couple too and the girl was super sweet and offered to take my pictures. Water was super cool and lovely. If I had company, I would have stayed longer. As I started to walk away, the men from Melbourne told me that there was another waterfall ahead. I decided to follow them. We had to go through from under rocks and it was quite thrilling. It was crazy to carry my pants, bag and phone into that! Luckily nothing got damaged. A Danish family was under the fall and once they were done, the woman took my pictures.
I was drenched and cold and hoped would dry soon. The last stop for the day was the Mother temple or Besakih temple. It was mandatory to take a guide at the temple which was included in the entry ticket. The distance from the entry gate to the temple was quite a bit and people usually ride with the guide. The guide I got was a man in his 50s and he reeked of alcohol. I disliked him from the first instance I laid eyes on him (not fair, but I just got the wrong vibes from him). He was very annoying. The first thing he said was, “Tip me in the end.” He was just making me pose and take pictures and trying to wrap the whole thing up in a few minutes. I forced him to tell me the history of the place and to take me through the humongous area. He asked me to take a picture of both of us, I don’t know why I obliged. I had no interest! And while I was doing that, he put his arm around me. I snapped at him and asked him to keep his hands to himself. I was glad to be back to my car and to be rid of him.
I had spoken about all the things I wanted to eat during the day. Agus was very sweet and stopped at a street side vendor to get me to taste Satay lilit. This was chicken satay but made with coconut. The portion was very generous and he told me that it was because he was around. If I had gone alone, I would have gotten cheated with half of it. It was super tasty and spicy. Even for this Indian girl!
Agus kept complaining of the traffic on the way. I had no clue what he was whining about. There was no traffic! Everyone followed rules, each car drove at one car distance! I painted him a picture of how it is on Indian roads. I think he appreciates his life a little more. Exhausted and done for the day.
Day 11
Day to move to my last destination, Ubud. I was checking out at around 10. I had finished packing up in the morning. It was absolutely ridiculous that I had luggage enough for a family of four! It was a nightmare to carry it and move from one place to another. I had a brunch at Warung Made’s. A place I had been eyeing through my stay. A beer first thing in the morning. Phew! I was light headed immediately. I had booked a Gojek. The journey was for almost an hour and a half and I napped throughout.
I reached my first stay at Jawi Painter house, Putu is the proprietor. This place came highly recommended by a friend. Unfortunately, due to some confusions with my bookings I was staying here only for a day. The house was in an extremely narrow lane and I had to take all my luggage and walk in there from the main road. Putu came out to meet me and showed my very comfortable and spacious room.
I left my luggage in and immediately went out. First stop, the famous Monkey forest. Well, monkeys aren’t exactly a novelty for me as they are a common sight in India. But the architecture in there is beautiful. The old temples and structures are absolutely worth visiting.
I decided to go to the Campuhan ridge walk next as it was the farthest destination on my list, and I wanted to finish it. Such a dumb idea! It was hot and not the ideal time to take a walk! Also, I think I confused it for another place. Wrong clothes and shoes. I struggled a lot. But on the way there, I met my Active Escape friends. The Canadian girls Jenn, Jody and Bianca. We quickly swapped stories and went our ways.
By the time I came back into the city, I was deadbeat. I had walked 5 kms just to go the ridge walk and back. It was super-hot too. I went into a convenio to withdraw some money from the ATM (Yes. I finished all that I had) and ended up buying a big (It was medium according to them) helping of slush.
Next stop, the Pura dalem temple. I came across it accidentally and I am glad I went in. It was absolutely gorgeous! The architecture was just breathtaking!
I passed by the museum which was close to shutting down. I wasn’t really interested in going in.
While searching for the Saraswati temple, I came across De Pradha Ubud, which has one of the most popular cooking classes. I quickly went and booked one for myself for a day later. It was IDR 350000 for the course I had chosen. Authentic Balinese dishes. The Saraswati temple is part of a coffee day now. There were a lot of people, the most annoying, this Indian couple who were taking forever with their pictures. I asked another girl to take my picture and I was out.
On the way back, I came across the Ubud market. I walked through it but wasn’t really interested in buying anything. It was the same stuff I had seen everywhere and double the price. I bought a pack of turmeric from an old woman, cause I just felt bad that she had to work. But let me tell you, she fleeced me good. As I was leaving I saw a beautiful dress and I completely fell for it. I haggled like a true Indian and bought it!
I was exhausted and just wanted to sleep. I ordered an appetizer at a restaurant right on the main road near my place. They weren’t happy as they wanted customers who would order more. I quickly ate it and crashed. I had to wake up at 1 to head for my Mount Batur Sunrise trek.
Day 12
Up at 1 and ready, I was waiting for the driver to come pick me up at 2. 2:10 and nobody had called me yet. Just then someone knocked at the door, it was my host who had been woken up by the driver. Apparently the driver didn’t have my number. What is wrong with these people?! I felt horrible that my host had to be woken up in the middle of the night.
Anyway, we were off soon to pick couple more girls. We were a total of 6 people, A couple from Germany, two friends from UK, myself and a woman from Australia. The girls just kept giggling and whispering through out the ride. It was bloody annoying. After around 30 minutes’ drive, we stopped for a breakfast of banana and chocolate crepe which was so tiny that it went in the farthest corner of my tummy and disappeared. I refused the coffee and tea. I am not used to them and I didn’t want to be peeing the rest of the morning. At the breakfast table we all introduced ourselves except for the Brits. They were in their own world. The couple from Germany were Finn and Lara. I just remember their names because I spent most of the day with them. As we were heading out I bumped into my AE Canadian friends again.
It was pretty cold and I was regretting not bringing a jacket. I was wearing multiple layers knowing well that it will start getting hotter as we climbed but right now it was quite cold. We reached the base after another hour and a half’s drive and were handed over to the guide. The Australian lady was supposed to go in another group as they were visiting the Hot springs too. I wanted to do that initially but decided against it. I really didn’t want to spend more money.
As soon as the trek began, Lara and I hit it off immediately. By the end of our trek 5 hours later, we had spoken about almost everything under the sun. Our work, culture of our countries, traditions, holidays, work culture, education system, political climate, the global refugee crisis, climate change, visiting India, learning German, German grammar! Phew!
I had to slow down and stop couple of times in the middle. My chronic knee pain and the fresh injury on the foot were bothering me. I felt horrible stopping my whole group and the worse part was the guide who started asking me every 5 minutes if I wanted to stop. Made me feel even more guilty. But, I reminded myself to let go of that pride and go by the pace that’s comfortable. By now, I knew that the injury on the first day of the retreat was not something minor. My foot was swollen all the time and I was going through a lot of discomfort and pain. Our guide suggested we don’t go upto the peak and stop a little way below at another point. This was to avoid the 100+ crowd at the peak and the dust they rise. None of us minded that and trusted his judgement. We were glad we did that. The view was outstanding! Lara and Finn had a go-pro ready to capture the whole event in Hyperlapse. I tried doing that with my phone too. It got quite chilly while waiting for the sunrise and looking at Lara and Finn cuddling wasn’t helping either. We all took each other’s pictures. The guide took the best shots for all of us too.
After the sunrise we went to see the crater and a few vents where steam was still rising. It was super hot and you couldn’t keep your hand on it for more than a few seconds. My phone was dead and I was glad I had gotten my DSLR for this. On our way down Lara slipped and fell and hilariously I fell right behind her. We were regretting that it wasn’t on video, would have made a great base for some fun memes. We descended quite quickly and then we were taken to a coffee plantation. I wasn’t interested at all as I had done this circuit before. We all got coffee tasters and some banana fritters. A quick snack before we head our way home.
I was back home by 10. After a quick shower, Putu the owner got me a breakfast of sandwich or as they call it Jaffles. I was going to check out by noon and Putu arranged her son, who was a taxi driver to take me to my next destination. She kept trying to call the next place to find out the location, but no one was answering. They had sent me a detailed map and we decided to try our luck with that. Putu usually cooks a Balinese meal for her guests if they are staying more than one night. Because of my booking mess, I couldn’t stay longer but had requested her to cook me the meal and charge me for it. Unfortunately, she had a family event and couldn’t do that. To make up for it, she sent her husband to the market at 6 in the morning to get me some Balinese rice cakes which are traditional Balinese breakfast. She is just so adorable! I definitely am going to go back to Bali some day and I know where I would be staying in Ubud. <3
Her son took me to the next stay which took a little searching. It was uphill in a tiny lane and the car couldn’t go in. I walked in and asked other residents before I found the place. The proprietor got his bike out to come back to the car and help me carry my luggage. I told Putu’s son to keep himself free for my airport ride a few days later. The new place was absolutely picturesque. Made’s place was set in between paddy fields, far away from every man made noise. This was going to be my internal vacation to chill. My room was gorgeous with a bath tub looking out the field and a lot of private space.
I unpacked, sat and ate Putu’s rice cakes and then headed to Goa Gajah early evening. This was a temple which was initially a Monastery. Monks used to meditate in the caves. This is the only temple which includes both Hindu and Buddhist imagery. I had to take the customary sarong. I requested a bunch of Indian girls to take my picture in the bathing temple enclave. They refused to step down to take a close up as they had their footwear on. I tried explaining to them that it was ok and only the water was sacred and they had to take their footwear off for that. They refused and I was irritated (Not cool Deepika). I heard them talk in Kannada and figured they were from India. At the main Elephant cave entrance I heard a girl speak in German and I requested her to take my picture. After a few exchanges in this new language I am learning, I moved on and bumped into those Kannada girls again who were arguing about entering the cave or not. I told them they could, in Kannada. The shock on their face was absolutely priceless! Best part? They kept verbalizing this shock in Kannada right in front of me!
Goa Gajah is beautiful and full of gorgeous trees and a little water body. I was walking around leisurely when another Indian couple came across me and this time asked me to take their picture. They were talking to each other in Hindi and I asked them if they wanted more pictures in Hindi. They were gobsmacked too! They couldn’t believe I was Indian. Why???? I am so Indian in the way I look. It’s impossible for Indians to not recognize me. Even at the Obstacle course day in Active Escapes at the four seasons (See the earlier blog for the Active Escape experience) I had come across an old Indian couple and they kept saying that I didn’t look Indian and were so surprised by my fluent North Indian Hindi. Why???
Next stop to Seniman, a famous café to just while away my time. I had the espresso and I was going to puke. I am not saying it was bad! But, I don’t drink coffee which makes me an absolute idiot for ordering an espresso. Well, I was following a friend’s recommendation but I still was an idiot. After somehow finishing it, I went to the Ganesha bookstore. Tried not to buy the whole store!
Anyway, after I was done I booked a Gojek to Sayan Night market. This was the place where locals went to eat unlike the popular Gianyar street which is full of tourists. If you want the right experience at the right price, go where the locals go. My Gojek driver was quite apprehensive about picking me from central Ubud. The taxi mafia doesn’t allow other App based vehicles to come in. I felt like we were undercover agents at a serious operation. I hid out of sight between two stores while keeping a lookout for other taxis or bikes and making sure he could come in safely. Fortunately, we reached Sayan without any incident. Let’s just say I lost the plot here. I ate the Mee Ayam Bakso, a mix of two dishes quite popular here. I wanted to try other things but was feeling sick with the espresso and finally bought an assortment of different sweets. Back home through some crazy narrow lanes.
Day 13
A quick breakfast later I was at the famous Bumbu Bali cooking class at De Prabha hotel. The receptionist/manager took me along with her 1 and a half year old daughter to the local morning market. We were on a two wheeler and my heart was in the mouth watching the little stand in the front. I kept offering to hold her, but she said that the baby was used to it!! We bought some fresh produce for the class and she even bought me some Gado gado which I had been dying to taste. Absolutely delicious vegetarian staple made of vegetables and spicy peanut sauce and some steamed rice cakes. She even bought me a dessert made of steamed rice balls in jaggery sauce. I tasted a bit of both before my class began.
My teacher was Chef Gusti Gede Suwitra. I learnt Base gede ( sauce used in most recipes), Sayur Urab (Green vegetable with grated coconut), Opor Ayam Bali (Chicken in spicy broth. He added some veggies I had bought too), Satay Lilit ( Chicken and coconut satays), Pisang Goreng (Fried banana and he added jackfruit too when he came to know that I absolutely loved that fruit). Most of the prep was almost done and I just sautéed, chopped a bit and stirred. Of course ate a lot in the process of tasting. Chef told me about his village and how he commutes 2 hours every day, one way for work, as cost of living is way to high in Ubud. His daughter is studying hotel management and he was a proud father telling me about her achievements. I was too full still when lunch time came and I decided to go for a walk and see the Ubud palace to digest some stuff.
Ubud palace was barely a 5 minute visit and was full of Chinese tourists. A trio of women were doing a hilarious photoshoot, very similar to the funny videos we see of Asian girls posing for pictures. Multiple quick and funny poses. I was too busy laughing to remember to take a video. I requested some fellow tourist to take mine. Still not hungry, I packed all the food and went back home.
I chilled, read and did nothing all evening except for calling my friend Vanita and updating her with all the fun stuff I was doing. Ate a bit of the gado gado when I got hungry in the night. I heard some funny bird sounds and wondered which bird was up in the darkness. I realized later that it a Gecko!
Day 14
Just sat all day and read. Finished two books and then switched to Netflix. Finished a whole season of Bard of blood and then read some more. Ate yesterday’s food for lunch, Mangosteen for snack (Loved it!) and was wondering what to do for the dinner. I was too lazy to head out but also bored. I wondered about going out for a drink but the thought of drinking alone was a bummer. Abhinav suggested I go out and pack dinner and come back to the room! I had forgotten about that whole system! I was busy looking for delivery before I spoke to him. I had wanted to eat Nasi Jinggo and had asked my hosts where I could get it. I went out looking, but couldn’t find it so I bought Nasi goreng. On my way back home I bumped into my host who offered to drop me at The Nasi Jinggo street stall. It was just a table at the street side. Even the traffic cop vouched that it was the best in the city. I bought one and went back home. Tiny portion but absolutely delicious and spicy. I was done and was off to bed.
Day 15
Time to go back home! My cab picked me up at noon for the ultra-long drive. He told me about the weird rules of taxi in Ubud. Each zone/area’s driver is allowed to enter another zone only to drop the passengers but not to pick. This makes sure the local drivers get business. It lead to monopoly. Yesterday a driver was asking me exorbitant prices. I knew the right price because I had checked it on Gojek, but I was in the middle of Ubud and no Gojek driver would come there. I refused to pay and walked away when the driver agreed to my price. They will definitely fleece you if they can. He also talked me to a lot of Hindu mythology, some questions and stories I had no clue about!
The flight back home was nothing worth mentioning except for the last flight in Air Asia. The flight attendant was acting like he was a funny South western Airlines crew whereas he was making a lot of inappropriate, sexist, misogynist comments. My baggage was tampered with and my perfume was stolen. At Hyderabad airport, I forgot my jacket at the security check and remembered when I went out. This led to me chasing after multiple people before I was sent with someone to retrieve it. Surprisingly, it didn’t take as long as I had expected it to.
Let’s not linger on these negative experiences, shall we? I had an incredible 15 days in Bali and am left with a lifetime of memories and experiences! Genuinely looking forward to going there again!
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